EASTERN CAPITALS & DALMATIAN RIVIERA
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Today we headed into the mountainous fjord, an inlet from the Adriatic Sea, of Montenegro. Our guide informed us that this area is an area known for its silk production with its mulberry trees. The women used to put the cocoons in their bosoms to keep them warm. Of course, now the worms are all hatched with environmental controls, powered by electricity. We also saw what was left of many dairy farms destroyed during war, which never came back. Hard to bring back agriculture now, our guide said. No one wants to work fields. We had two border crossings each way; and at two of them, our driver gave Two bottles of water for a "bribe" at the border so we didn't have to have the passports scanned. Apparently, they like bottled water. Our guide told us how the local currency, the "dinar" had out of control inflation. There was even a note for a billion dinar. So he said he was a poor billionaire before Montenegro switched to the Euro. Famous mimosa yellow flower is the flower of Montenegro, but it is actually from Australia. Known for big food portions. They give visitors free fish in February. Drinks have lots of cool traditions. Two types of wine. Red is Branatz or black stallion. Dark color. And a white as Crystatz. And grappa. Two kinds 60% alcohol or grappa lite, which is only 45%. Haha. Schlivovitza is a plum brandy or grappa. Food is usually from other countries. Chalapi (minced meat fingers) and baklava and goulash. Montenegrin plate like antipasti with special prosciutto that takes 6 months to cure. July 22 is fascianata to support the Lady of the Rock island church. Everyone carries rocks out in their boats to try to build up and reinforce the artificial island from the 15th century. Montenegrins are second tallest in the world to Holland. Pillory of shame, people were chained to it for public punishment. Then we said our goodbyes at the farewell dinner. I will miss hearing our new friends Sue and John call Tom a "Pommie" and say "bugger" and "sugar." Today we headed back through the mountains to the coast, which involved four border crossings. Luckily, we only had to wait at one with passport checks. The others we were waved through. Along the way, our guide gave us tidbits about life during the communist era and how in Slovenia they could go to Italy but weren't allowed to bring goods back, so the girls would go over, buy pants, and wear two pair of jeans, so she said she was a "smuggler." Today was a most gorgeous day. Our lunch break was in Medjugorje, the place where six visionaries continue to see Our Lady at various times throughout the year (the visions were first reported in 1981). We found the quaint village to be taken over as a tourist trap. As we traveled on the path to Visionary Hill, a man from India took us in his car since we didn't have time to get there. He drove us around the non-touristy part of town to a place where you can see a statue on the Apparition Hill. He also pointed out a sign indicating where a cross turned blue. Unfortunately, I didn't have time to climb the hill, but we did have a short time in the church, which is a quite simple one. Many pilgrims were there, so I can just imagine during a religious holiday just how crowded it would be. I bought some Peace Chaplets for my Catholic friends. Then it was off to the coast to continue our drive to Drubrovnik (pronounced doo broh nick without the "v"). The scenery was spectacular with the coastline and green hills and islands. We had a local guide give a tour around the town, followed by dinner and a magical evening drive up a cliff overlooking the city. Our driver was superb navigating our coach on a narrow one-way street. We were here very surprised that our hotel had rooms overlooking the sea. Tom and I sat out enjoying what we agreed was the most romantic place we have ever been. What a wonderful place to spend our last two days. My rough notes: Wore two pair of jeans so Slovenians smuggled from Italy. Indian man took us on a tour. Whey I asked him what he thought of the visionaries (he is Hindu), he replied, "They are holy people, ma'am." He touched my heart. We'll see how we go Along the coast, there used to be a nudist hotel, where guests were greeted with employees wearing nothing but a bow tie. St. Blaise is the protector. Dubrovnik is the Athens of Dalmatia Big earthquake 16th century. Never came back. Any building with decoration or balcony was before the architecture. Then plain building style. Orphanage with lazy susan to put unwanted babies on. Walls have ears. Unesco controls remodeling. Can't change anything on outside and have to remodel in the winter due to tourists. Morality police$ 150 fine for breaking dress code. No swimming after game of thrones episode aired and people pushed the limits of decency.. Modesty curtain to block the ankles. First to recognize the new United States. Don't hike off trail. So I haven't posted for a day. That's due to my catching a cold, so I basically slept away a day of travel and an evening in Sarajevo. But today some of my energy was back. Our local guide took us to the tunnel that was built during the war to get supplies and arms back and forth when the Serbs had surrounded the city. We actually got to walk through a portion of it. We were filled in on many of the feelings of the Bosnians today, dealing with the effects of the war and with the three major religions here: Muslim, Orthodox and Catholic. Our guide downplayed the divisions, saying most of it was between politicians and not the feelings of ordinary people; however, we ran into a university student who had other opinions. He felt certain that the muslims would revolt. During the tour, we had a traditional lunch, followed by Bosnian coffee, served like Turkish coffee, but unsweetened. Instead, they serve sugar cubes, which you can stir in but otherwise they take a bit of sugar before they sip. They also read the coffee grounds to tell fortunes, just like arabs. Then the group headed back back to the hotel for dinner in local homes. Instead, Tom and I visited the National Museum, which held some real treasures from Greek and Roman times. Plus it has a botanical garden that we were surprised to see a sequoia in. The museum housed an ethnic display from the ottoman period and the Austrian era, showing the differences is style of dress and houses from those times. Finally, a fourth building had gems and minerals as well as birds and mammals. We were surprised to see how big the bears are here. my notes: the guide showed us sniper alley Many trees chopped down for heating during war time. Visited the escape tunnel to escape Serbian forces. Tunnel of hope. United Nations is "United Nothing" according to Bosnians. They did clean streets and control airport. Most Bosnians say they did nothing though. The people were given mystery meat rations. It was rations left over from WWII. Traded it for Barbie dolls and chewing gum. Both her parents and the aunt who adopted her were killed in the war. Her grandparents then took over raising her. People here are always taking coffee breaks, even if not having a coffee. Today, we had our earliest wake up call so far in order to get in line for the ferry to Brac island. We could not believe how turquoise-clear the water was. We could see the bottom even in deep water with fish everywhere. After the ferry landed, we boarded our coach again and a local guide joined us. She told us all of the facts below. The island is solid rock. It is known for fine hard limestone and has many quarries. Stones are cut into slabs for houses and even roofs. However, it makes it hard to build foundations, plumbing pipes, etc. It's very hard to grow things because there is little top soil and rocks must be cleared. They do grow almonds and sour cherries, Marachino as well as olives, pomegranates and citrus. The island has two million olive trees. They claim to have the best olive oil in the world. We had a local meal at an olive factory, the old fashioned kind with a grind wheel and stone instruments and holding tanks. We had local sheep cheese, prosciutto, olives, rustico bread, grilled veggies, and of course olive oil and homemade wine. Black pines are native and mushroom shaped. Muflong wild sheep nonnative. Stone igloos for the shepherds to sleep. We took a return ferry at days end and had a nice meal in the hotel. Now it is off to Herzegovina and Bosnia to Sarajevo tomorrow. |
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